Recipes with opinions

Marcella Hazan, author of the (very highly regarded) Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, has a beautifully written jibe at other authors and chefs in her recipe for handmade pasta: “Note: Outside of spinach, no other coloring can be recommended as an alternative to basic yellow pasta. Other substances have no flavor, and therefore have no gastronomic interest. Or, if they do contribute flavor, such as that of the deplorable black pasta whose dough is tinted with squid ink, its taste is not fresh. Pasta does not need to be dressed up, except in the colors and aromas of its sauce.”

I still like a little cracked pepper myself, but really you can put that on top rather than in the pasta.

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