Bolivia

My brother is now blogging from Bolivia. He says he’ll be posting more once he gets internet at home. In the meantime, check out his friend Pancho en Ecuador, (sitio en Español) who’s working on a similar project in Ecuador. Particularly amusing is his story of a visit to story Lago Agrio, a town known principally for what are called the three Ps (putas, petroleros, y pistoleros — that is, whores, oilmen, and gunslingers). Plus, tips for flying through the Andes in a tiny plane rated for flights below 2500 meters: start to worry if the pilot looks terrified.

Style Trends: Expensive, Dangerous Toys

September is the month for motorcycle manufacturers to announce their new models for the upcoming year. After looking at my favorite manufacturers (Honda and Triumph), here are my thoughts on this year and predictions for 2007.

Honda has brought the 599 (aka Hornet, aka CB600) back to the US after a 1-year hiatus. A top-seller in Europe, it’s well-reviewed, especially for city riding. But the American market loves big-displacement bikes that go long distances on highways, and this is medium-sized and unfaired, making for windy highway rides. That, plus a price-tag well above the competition (notably the Suzuki SV-650) led to poor sales for 2004, and no US release for 2005. I was hoping for a switch to fuel-injection and maybe a cut in the price, but instead it’s $300 more and some suspension adjustments. My prediction: poor sales and the continuation of Honda’s search for something to replace the Nighthawk 750, its previous mid-size standard. I don’t think they’ll find something that can really be loved in the US the way that Europe likes the Hornet: it’s a great, medium-sized bike, and the US doesn’t seem to like anything moderate. I’ve seen people mocked on message-boards for starting with a 500cc bike, which in Europe is considered full-size. Kawasaki is nodding to that fact by releasing one of the only all-new bikes of the year, the incredibly-cool ER-6N, only in Europe.

Meanwhile, Triumph has brought out a couple variations on its current themes, most notably the Scrambler, an offroad-style version of the classic Bonneville. That got me thinking: I saw a lot of dirt-bikes and dual-sports in Barcelona, and they’d be perfect for a lot of city streets in the US as well: they give you an upright position so you can see around you, and they’re great for potholes and sidewalks. Plus, it seems like dirtbikes are becoming cool again, and Supermoto Racing (dirt-track in some sections, paved in others, slightly modified dirt-bikes) is increasingly popular, with segments on the X-Games and sponsorship from Red Bull. My prediction is that we’ll see some interesting dual-sport bikes coming from the major vendors in 2007.

If not, that’s an opening for KTM, which has long been focused on off-road bikes but has built an impressive dual-sport portfolio as well. The new, more street-oriented 990 Super Duke suggests to me that they are perfectly aware of the trend, too. It seems perfect for the US market, too: where else could you sell a dirtbike with a 1-liter engine?

How to feel selfish and petty

While on vacation, I read The Burn Journals, which is about this 14-year-old kid who set himself on fire, and what happened after that. It’s a true story, and the author is going to speak at Harvard Bookstore some time this fall. The kid isn’t sure, at the time, exactly why he tried to kill himself, and he’s selfish and petty a lot of the time– as a teenager will be– except, of course, he’s also horribly burned, too. There were parts of the book that really touched me: his crushes on the nurses, his reaction to the fact that small children are now afraid of him, his realization– much later than you’d expect — that he’s hurt his family.

But really, compared to Ryszard Kapuscinski’s book about post-independence Africa, The Shadow of the Sun, he’s an incredibly petty whiner. Kapuscinski travels through newly independent African nations as a under-funded Polish journalist, meaning he gets malaria and TB and heat-stroke and hitch-hikes to war-torn areas on trucks, like the locals do, because his press bureau doesn’t have the funds to fly him around like the rich ones do. In the process, he gets a different view of things. He goes to villages where the richest man in town is the one who owns a bicycle, and where even he eats only one meal a day, and less in the dry season. He visits farmers who are careful not to work too hard, because if they do, they’ll die of exhaustion before the harvest comes in. He goes to urban shantytowns where everything is built of scraps, to refugee camps and unmarked shallow graves and empty markets and corrupt checkpoints. Really this is one of the best things I’ve read in a long time.

Apparently, conditions in Africa are better than they used to be, though. I learned that from Skeletons on the Zahara, in which Dean King relates the (true!) story of shipwrecked American merchant sailors who spend several years as slaves in nomad caravans, drinking their own urine and surviving on a half-bowl of camel’s milk every other day. Their masters get not much more– a full bowl, perhaps– as they trek north to ransom their captives. The relationship between the captives and their captors, who have no language or culture in common, who believe each other to be infidels and cannibals, is touching: they both, after all, take huge risks to travel unknown, trackless seas and deserts. Ultimately, the Americans are ransomed in Morocco, and return home as celebrities. They die relatively soon thereafter, of complications from malaria, dysentery, and starvation.

King’s story is both gripping and informative: for example, I learned that if you are trapped on the ocean with a limited supply of fresh water, you can supplement it with sea-water by up to 1/3, since that adds electrolytes you lose through sweat. Also, if necessary, you can drink the urine of a camel, and if it dies, you can drink the half-digested glop from its rumen. Potentially useful information come the apocalypse!

Business Books

For my vacation I grabbed a few handfuls of books from Bookdwarf’s office advance-review-copy pile. One of them was a business book by the editors of Business 2.0 Magazine. I read about ten pages of it and threw it across the room in disgust, because business books are all about teaching common sense and reason through anecdote and rule. If you are in your 30s and need a book to teach you how to handle facts like like “sometimes groups don’t cooperate well” and “customers hate it when you ignore them and lie to them” then it could be that you are a waste of oxygen and should be put to death.

On the other hand, here is a business thing that I have learned that may or may not seem obvious at first: your brochure is probably going to go unread, and if your customers read it, they won’t really read it carefully, because they will assume it has no useful information in it, and that it is full of vagueness. It probably is, in fact, devoid of the hard facts they need.

If you want them to consider your product, let them try it. An eval kit is worth 1000 flyers. A spec-sheet helps too, actually. People believe spec-sheets. Anything with too many adjectives gets tossed.

People of Spain, I beseech you, tell me: What is it with the mullets?

Bookdwarf and I have a secret code that served us particularly well throughout our vacation in Spain: whenever we saw someone wearing a particularly ridiculous outfit, we would tap or squeeze hands three times.

This was very useful because there were a lot of ugly tourists, but also because the full-on mullet is very much in fashion in southern Europe right now. Among the young radicals, it has morphed into a mullet consisting of dreadlocks or even a mohawk of dreadlocks. A lock-hawk, if you will. The hipsters, they amuse endlessly.

Tancat Per Reformes

I am back in Beautiful Slummerville after nine days without so much as an email or voicemail. It’s been lovely. I called my parents from the airport and they said “Huh, so that’s where you were. We were wondering.”

I learned a few phrases of Catalan, such as “cafe amb llet” and “vi negre.” I also learned that tapas have become such an elaborate thing that a new, less-formal bar-snack trend is taking hold: pintxos (the tx is pronounced as ch, this being an originally Basque bar-snack). Pintxos consist of anything you can toothpick to a small slice of bread. and are self-serve. At the end of your snacking the bartender counts your toothpicks and you pay. Usually its between one and two euros per toothpick. They are getting increasingly elaborate, of course.

Over the next few days I will post reviews of restaurants, embarrassing stories, pictures of my horrible, horrible black eye, and also Bookdwarf and I will post reviews of books that we read over at her blog.

Comical Mishap

I am in Barcelona, at Brainshare. Somewhat to my surprise, my Spanish hasn’t totally disappeared, and I’m having a lovely time being everyone’s translator. I even manage to understand the people who ask questions in Portuguese, as long as they talk very, very, slowly.

However, this morning, I tried to get out of bed and my legs were asleep, and I fell over, and hit my face on the edge of a table, bruising it badly. Combined with Sunday’s shaving mishap, this now makes two days out of three that I’ve been at the show looking like I’ve just come out of a rather nasty fight.

Also I read “Willful Creatures” by Aimee Bender. Excellent.

Housing deals abound

See, you can find some good deals if you’re just willing to look hard enough, maybe consider something further out of town. But if you’re willing to commute, hey, you could get a place described as having only one bad room! And I’m not too sure what they mean by “glory hole,” either– possibly the bedroom comes equipped with a means for poring boiling oil over your neighbors?